Selamat Datang everyone,

We are very pleased to be in Malaysia now after a rather disappointing India.

Liz and I spent a couple of weeks in Sarawak (a Malay state on Borneo island) to just chill out and relax while our bikes were being shipped to Singapore from India. What a drama THAT was, but that is a long story that I am sure you will all hear about when we chat to you eventually.

While in Sarawak Steve became ill again, another aftershock of the virus that struck him in Turkey. A visit from a doctor did nothing, so we visited a specialist who prescribed some stronger medicine, and within two days Steve was just fine.

We visited an Orang Utan sanctuary there, a rather scary visit. We were guided up a path to the feeding area to watch the feeding show, but the largest of the males (Ritchie) was particularly angry that day. It was made known that he and another rather large male were fighting over a female. Ritchie was breaking bits of wood at the construction site for the feeding show viewing platform and was edging closer and closer to all in the group. It was firmly suggested that we back well away, which we did (apart from a small group of Japanese tourists snapping away) back to safety. There are signs at the park that state that you should not go within 5 meters of an Orang Utan, but they don't say what to do if they come within 5 meters of you. As we were strolling up to the feeding area, a mother Orang Utan with a small infant climbed down from a tree and strolled past Liz and I along the path at touching distance. A very surreal experience. She looked up at us and just kept walking while Liz and I stood very still.

Steve had some traditional Iban tattoos done in Kuching (Borneo Head Hunters Tattoo Studio for those who are interested) made in the traditional way using two sticks. One with the needle and the other to tap the needle stick. He also had some traditional Iban designs added to the existing tattoo on his back, and it looks just brilliant. The proprietor at Borneo Head Hunters Studio is Ernesto, an Iban, who does work by appointment only and really takes pride in what he does and the relationship that was established with him will continue for ever. We are already planning to return for the tattoo convention in Sarawak in 2009 which he organises.

We also visited an Iban longhouse in Sarawak, the Iban are native Borneo Malays who are traditionally head hunters. We met two bonafide head hunters (the Iban don't practise it anymore, but the original head hunters can be identified by dots tattooed on there hands) who were particularly impressed with Steve's tattoos. The chief of one of the longhouses could not take his eyes off the Ned Kelly tattoo on Steve's arm.

Rice wine is presented to VIP visitors to the longhouses, and as we came bearing gifts and Steve's tattoo work impressing the tribal elders, we were invited to share a bottle of wine. The custom is to hold the glass toasting all present with a loud HOO HAA three times and down the glass in a single swallow. It really makes your mouth tingle. Steve tried his hand at blow darting and was quite a marksman. Even the tricky two dart blowing where you grip one dart in the pipe with your teeth and blow extra hard to blow the forward dart then blowing the rear dart in one breath firing two darts in succession.

We were invited to a young lady's family home for Open House day as part of the end celebrations of Ramadan (or Hari Raya) which was lovely.

We flew to Kuala Lumpur to watch the qualifying and main race of the Moto GP. All very exciting but the actual race being a bit predictable and bland. We got Valentino Rossi's autograph and photo in the paddock area which was a bit of a coup.

On the Monday after the weekend racing, we caught a bus down to Singapore and on the Tuesday went to the bike shop where our bikes had been delivered. We uncrated our bikes and organised new tyres and a check-up on them. It was great to see the bikes again after such a long time. A few days later after organising Thai visas and a bit of sightseeing (Changi Prison Museum as Steve's Grandfather was interned there during the war) we arranged for the bikes to be carried on a truck to the mid-point of the causeway connecting Singapore and Malaysia. We did this as the process of organising the required permits and insurance etc. to ride the bikes to the border is such a bureaucratic nightmare.

We unloaded the bikes from the truck on the causeway and rode on through the Malaysian immigration point and on to Melaka where we are now. After all the preparation of the bikes in Singapore and the long days there, we decided to relax for a few days here.

Steve took the relaxing to another level when he and Stuart (we are still with him for the moment) drank far too much one evening at a street cafe between two entertainers at competing venues. They took it in turns for their sets, and Stuart and Steve were singing and we all really enjoyed the evening.

We ride over to the state of Pahang on the East cost tomorrow for a few days before riding back toward the West cast via the Tamar Negar National Park and Fraser's Hill and then up to the Cameron Highlands before heading for Penang, Langkawi and onto Thailand.

Our next update should be from Penang if not sooner.

We are downloading the India photos today but the captions will take a little while, but you can see them in the meantime. We'll update the Malaysian photos in Penang (you will be able to see a video of Steve getting the traditional tattoos done).

We hope you are all well.

We are getting more and more excited about reaching Melbourne, it must be because we are getting closer and closer.

Thinking of you all.

Liz and Steve.